The Secret Garden

•March 30, 2008 • 2 Comments

Entering the Secret Garden

Located deep within Old San Juan on Calle de San Francisco there exists a small park – a secret garden known only to locals. While checking out the nearby La Forteleza, be sure to seek out this sanctuary, hidden behind rising palms on a residential street. You’ll have to look closely, or you’ll walk right by…

Lovely!

Many are the treasures you’ll find! There are bakeries nearby, which make an impromptu picnic a pleasant possibility. My dear Mary, who has lived in San Juan for over 20 years, had never heard of this secret garden. Needless to say, she was surprised!

Four Beaches and an Alcapurria

•March 23, 2008 • 1 Comment

Today we set out to hit the corners of Puerto Rico, visiting four beaches: Playa de Ponce, Luquillo, Cabo Rojo, and Pinones. Each beach has its own distinctive flavor, from pebble-strewn to talcum powder sand and clear water.

Our first stop was Playa de Ponce, which is on the arid southern shore of Puerto Rico. The beach sand, shown above, isn’t actually sandy. It is a collection of roughly crushed coral and seashells which make for rather uncomfortable beach lounging, but the opportunity to collect sea shells is quite good.

This was the view from my rather painful spot on the beach wall. Why painful, you ask? I dropped a 10 pound glass jar of sugar on my right foot this morning while making (what else?) my famous french toast, fracturing the next-to-last toe. Rather than go to the hospital and ruin the day for everyone, I hobbled along and shot my D300 from where ever I found myself plopped.

Ponce is well worth a visit, even if the beach isn’t ‘all that’. Ponce, the second largest city in Puerto Rico outside of the San Juan metropolitan area, is named after Juan Ponce de León y Loayza, the grandson of Spanish conquistador Juan Ponce de León. Ponce is often referred to as La Perla del Sur (The Pearl of the South) and La Ciudad Señorial de Puerto Rico (Majestic city of Puerto Rico).

Regular readers of this journal will recognize my good friend Jesus, who was our chauffeur throughout the day. Jesus is a true friend – he drove us 500 miles and we enjoyed his company immensely. Jesus brought his dog Roger along for the ride, who was well behaved all through our long day.

My daughter collected a few shells from the beach in Ponce. This photo was finished with a washed out look, and I really like the result.

Tucked away in the southwest corner of the island is the community of Cabo Rojo. There is a national seashore here, administered by the National Park Service. It is said that Cabo Rojo obtained its name from the considerable amount of minerals found in its coasts that made the waters look reddish. Cabo is the Spanish word for tip and analogous to the English word Cape in this context. The word rojo, translates to red. According to legend, the name was given by Christopher Columbus himself, although this is highly unlikely. The first church, founded in 1783, was called San José. The present-day main catholic church is called San Miguel Arcángel located in the town’s square.

Cabo Rojo Lighthouse

Located at the southwestern tip of the island of Puerto Rico, Los Morrillos Lighthouse was constructed in 1882 in order to guide passing ships through the southeast entrance from the Caribbean Sea through the treacherous Mona Passage into the Atlantic Ocean. The lighthouse is located over a while lime cliff which is surrounded by salt water lagoons and marshes. The cliffs surrounding the lighthouse drop over 200 feet into the ocean.

The lighthouse’s architecture is distinguished by its simplicity, with minimal decoration and an unelaborated cornice repeated through the structure. The illuminating apparatus is housed in a cast-iron, copper and glass lantern. The lenticular lens was manufactured by the French firm Sautter, Lemonnier and Company.

Originally, the lighthouse was manned by two keepers and an engineer, who lived on the grounds with their families. In 1967 the lighthouse was renovated and its operation is currently completely automated. The structure itself has been abandoned for decades, although recently the local government as well as local civic groups, such as Caborrojeños Pro Salud y Ambiente, are pushing towards turning the old lighthouse keeper’s house into a museum. The project was taken over by the municipality, an action that lost U.S. Federal government funds that had been assigned for it. The municipality took over the renovations, which, according to critics, has irrevocably damaged the historical significance of the internal structure.

Here is the view down the 200 foot cliffs, over the red rocks below, and into the foaming sea. Cabo Rojo is just beautiful and well worth the drive across Puerto Rico.

The third beach on our tour was in Luquillo, Puerto Rico. Luquillo is known as “La Capital del Sol” (sun capital) and “La Riviera de Puerto Rico” (Puerto Rico’s riviera). Luquillo was founded in 1797 by Cristóbal Guzmán. The town was named after the Indian cacique Loquillo, who died a few years after the last Indian rebellion in 1513.

Luquillo Tranquillo

Here is my daughter relaxing in the gentle waves at Playa de Luquillo. A huge plantation of majestic coconut palms lining the beach shades more than a mile of fine sand. It is one of the most popular public beaches in the San Juan area. It offers cafeterias, public bathrooms with showers, access for disabled people, and an ample parking lot. This is one of the public beaches most frequented by the locals.

Finally, we visited Pinones, Puerto Rico. Vacia Talega beach is part of the long strip of beach comprising the ‘Pinones Nature Reserve’ just east of the San Juan Airport on Road 187. It is a very scenic way to drive east from San Juan.

Allthough it’s very beautiful this area is notorious for theft and you should never be on the beach alone nor park your car in a deserted area. If there are others at the beach, you’ll be fine here. Remember thieves can spot tourists by their rental cars and are tempted to open the trunk to see what cameras and wallets you’ve left for them! Despite the environmental challenges here, the beach is just beautiful.

There is a reef just offshore which provides a spectacular aerial show when the surf is up. I estimated these breaks at 30 to 40 feet high – awesome!

The beach at Pinones is a mixture of coarse sand and coral. Although this area bears caution by tourists, the views are amazing and there are numerous fast food vendors nearby selling alcapurrias and other local treats. Alcapurria is a dish from Puerto Rico made from a mixture of ground plantains and yautia, filled with ground beef or crab meat and deep fried in vegetable oil. Many Puerto Ricans enjoy this dish and are often found eating it at the beach with friends.

My daughter, shown relaxing in Pinones. This photo was finished with an acid wash treatment which I rather like. Shortly after this photo was taken we decided to hit the nearby stands where we scored some freshly made fried goods for the ride home. Mission accomplished!

*&

High Surf Warning!

•March 20, 2008 • Leave a Comment

“This coastal flooding is the greatest non-tropical cyclone related swell event experienced in the local area since the Perfect storm of 1991.”

- NOAA, 19 MARCH 2008, San Juan PR.

So began the day in Puerto Rico when my daughter and me arrived to enjoy a few days over spring break. We had originally intended to take the ferry to Culebra for a day of sun and fun, but the 30 foot waves at sea caused all ferry service to Culebra and Vieques to suspend for several days.

The view above was taken from Old San Juan looking eastward towards Condado and Pinones. Flooding in Pinones was extensive, causing evacuations and road/beach closures. Video footage form the local TV stations captured storm surges of several feet in some areas.

The wind, surf and sea spray were pretty amazing. These waves breaking near El Morro were 20 to 30 feet tall! It was also spring break for school-aged children in Puerto Rico, and the added benefit of high winds made kite flying a necessity.

Kites weren’t the only fliers today. Birds of all kinds enjoyed the constant breeze, including this Brown Pelican (Pelecanus occidentalis), which is the smallest of the eight species of pelican, although it is a large bird in nearly every other regard. It is 106-137 cm (42-54 in) in length, weighs from 2.75 to 5.5 kg (6-12 lb) and has a wingspan from 1.83 to 2.5 m (6 to 8.2 ft).

This bird is distinguished from the American White Pelican by its brown body and its habit of diving for fish from the air, as opposed to co-operative fishing from the surface. Groups of Brown Pelicans often travel in single file, flying low over the water’s surface. It eats mainly herring-like fish.

This red buoy, a type of sea mark which identifies the approach to San Juan Harbor, was having a rough go of it. The International Association of Lighthouse Authorities defines two systems of marks specifying the shapes, colors and characteristic lights of buoys, depending on their purpose. For historical reasons, there are two contradictory systems of lateral marks in use:

  • IALA System B in the Americas, the Philippines and Japan
  • IALA System A everywhere else.

The two systems differ principally in the colors used to denote the two sides of a channel. When approaching a harbor from seaward, System A places conical green marks to starboard and cylindrical red ones to port. In System B these are replaced with conical red marks to starboard and cylindrical green ones to port. This can be remembered (for System B) with the mnemonic “Red, right, return”. Another System B mnemonic, which also helps with buoy numbering is “Even Red Left Port” (as in Eric the Red) – Even Numbered buoys are red, on your left (port) side leaving port. In any case, since in many harbors it is not always apparent which direction is seaward, buoys should be used in connection with the appropriate nautical chart. Additionally, since marks may be off station due to collision with ships, storms or other factors, they should be used with caution and not relied on solely for navigation.

The shattered water made a misty din.
Great waves looked over others coming in,
And thought of doing something to the shore
That water never did to land before.
The clouds were low and hairy in the skies,
Like locks blown forward in the gleam of eyes.
You could not tell, and yet it looked as if
The shore was lucky in being backed by cliff,
The cliff in being backed by continent;
It looked as if a night of dark intent
Was coming, and not only a night, an age.
Someone had better be prepared for rage.
There would be more than ocean-water broken
Before God’s last Put out the light was spoken.

Once By The Ocean
Robert Frost

Flying The Line

•March 18, 2008 • 1 Comment

This post will be short in words with the goal of bringing a few of you aviation junkies a quick fix of some shots from the line. One of the things I love about flying is the opportunity to see all kinds of airplanes, facilities, and equipment and all kinds of weather. I’ve got dozens (hundreds?) of photos stored up from my adventures around the world, however, in keeping with the theme of this blog I’d like to present a few recent shots from the Caribbean.

(A note about this photo: at first glance, it would appear that this photo and the one on my header above were taken on the same day using the same camera. In fact, the shot used in the header was taken last August with my point & shoot Canon A630. The photo in today’s post was taken in March, a few days ago, with my Nikon D300 in very similar conditions using the same settings that I applied to the A630. The D300 shot is much more crisp, and I really like the highlight on the wing in addition to the excellent tonal qualities. I have to say, though, that for $200 the Canon A630 takes some really nice shots!)

The aircraft I’m working in/on these days is the venerable ATR-72. The ATR-72 is a twin-turboprop short-haul regional airliner built in France and Italy by ATR. It seats up to 66 passengers in a single-class configuration and is operated by a crew of 4: two pilots and two flight attendants.

Passengers are boarded using the rear door (which is rare for a passenger plane); the front door is used to load cargo. As a note of interest, Finnair ordered their ATR-72s with a front passenger door so that they could use the jet bridges at Helsinki-Vantaa airport.

A tail stand must be installed when passengers are boarding or disembarking to prevent the nose from coming off the ground when aft cargo is loaded. Nothing but funny fun fun on the ATR-72… but we love them. Usually.

Here’s my girlfriend Mary at sunrise on Nevis. Remember Nevis? Wait a minute… remember Mary?

I couldn’t resist a tail shot. It just looks nice. In fact, let me see if I can find another example of some nice tail…

Here’s a shot of the ATR tail with an edgy finish applied. I kinda like it… not my usual sunny, happy photo style.

And now for something completely different.

Can you spot anything about the landing gear on this LC-130 that seems a little out of place? SKIS! I couldn’t believe my eyes when I saw this unusual and somewhat rare plane touch down in front of us in San Juan. Luckily, I had my D300 in my hands and grabbed a quick shot.

The LC-130 Hercules with ski–wheels is used in Antarctica to supply inland stations and support field parties. By the early 1990s LC-130R machines, plus two of the older LC-130F, made up the USAP fleet of six ski–wheel transports. The aircraft are owned by NSF and were operated by the USN (VXE-6). The 109th TAG, NYANG, has four LC-130Hs of more recent vintage. Raytheon Systems Company had modified the Navy’s three remaining LC-130Rs to Air Force LC-130H standards.

The New York Air Guard’s 109th Airlift Wing, Schenectady, NY provides logistical support to the U.S. Antarctic Program, which is administered by the NSF. The 109th AW is the only organization in the world that flies the ski-equipped LC-130s, which are the only aircraft capable of landing at the South Pole at this time of year. There are only seven such aircraft in the world. The Air National Guard outfit has been flying people and supplies on its specially equipped planes to Arctic and Antarctic outposts since 1975.

The New York Air National Guard ski-equipped LC-130 unit inherited a historic responsibility in assuming the mission of airlift support for science in Antarctica when DoD and the National Science Foundation (NSF) signed a Memorandum of Agreement on March 26, 1998. The agreement, carrying signatures from senior representatives of the Department, the Air Force , the Navy , US Transportation Command, National Guard Bureau and the NSF, completed a three-year transition of program responsibility for LC-130 operations from the Navy to the 109th AW.

The agreement signing was the last in a series of events which complete the airlift transition. Ceremonies held at McMurdo Station, Antarctica, Christchurch, New Zealand and Port Hueneme, Calif., symbolically brought closure to Navy oversight over logistic air support on the Antarctica continent which began with Rear Adm. Richard E. Byrd’s Operation Deep Freeze in 1955.

The lack of commercial capability to provide the kind of ski-equipped, fixed-wing air support required by the US Antarctic Program provided no commercialization opportunities for this function. The Navy and National Science Foundation discussed this requirement with other government agencies. The Coast Guard considered taking on the mission as an extension of their current C-130 operations. The National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration, which has a fleet of aircraft that support science, also considered the mission. The National Science Foundation encouraged a close look at the Air National Guard for potential “single-point management” of fixed wing logistic support for Antarctica. The Air National Guard had already been augmenting Navy operations in Antarctica since 1988 with use of their own aircraft, and they also have had a complementary role of LC-130 logistic support in the Arctic since 1975.

And that’s all I know about that. I sent a copy of this photo to the 109th, but they never wrote back to acknowledge receipt – they must be busier than I am.

No, this isn’t a vintage photo, although I couldn’t help converting it to black and white for effect. This is one of several Douglas DC-3 (C-47) aircraft operating from San Jan carrying cargo to the nearer islands. I love it every time they take off and land – sometimes our ramp slows to a crawl while everyone looks at these gorgeous planes from days gone by.

To round out this dose of aviation sweetness, here’s a shot of a Virgin Airbus A-340 taken with my 70-200mm f2.8 zoom. I did some research on the aircraft’s registration number (clearly visible in the full resolution photo), and if I am reading the info correctly this is the second A-340 ever made in production. There are relatively few photos of this ship posted online, as compared to some airplanes with hundreds of photos, so I was totally stoked to grab this shot.

IN my next post, we return to the island view of things. I do hope that those of you who enjoy aviation in particular found these pictures interesting – I’ll do another aviation post in the not-to-distant future.

The Wild Side of Nevis

•March 8, 2008 • 2 Comments

Nevis Palm Breeze

As many of you know, the island of Nevis is my very favorite place in all of the Caribbean. There is an energy about Nevis that you notice the moment you step off of the plane. This energy is difficult to describe, but whenever I arrive, no matter how long and trying the day has been, I feel peaceful and rejuvenated. Today we arrived just before sunset and I decided to take a walk in the foothills of the dormant volcano adjacent to our resort.

St. Kitts from Nevis at sunset

Some Nevis History

Nevis (pronounced NEE-vis) is located near the northern end of the Lesser Antilles archipelago, about 220 miles (350 km) southeast of Puerto Rico and 50 miles (80 km) west of Antigua. The 36 square-mile (93 km²) island is part of the inner arc of the Leeward Islands chain of the West Indies. The capital of Nevis is Charlestown.

Nevis, along with Saint Kitts, forms the Federation of Saint Kitts and Nevis. The two islands are separated by a shallow 2-mile (3.22 km) channel, known as “The Narrows”. Nevis is conical in shape, with a volcanic peak, Nevis Peak (commonly referred to as Mount Nevis by the local population) at the center. The island is fringed on three sides by long sand beaches, and has a coastline intermittently protected by coral reefs. The most popular beach is the 4-mile (6.44 km) long Pinney’s Beach, on the western or Caribbean coast. The gently sloping coastal plain (0.6 miles/1 km wide) has natural fresh water springs, as well as non-potable volcanic hot springs, especially along the west coast.

The island was named Oualie (“Land of Beautiful Waters”) by the Caribs and Dulcina (“Sweet Island”) by the early British settlers. The name Nevis is derived from the Spanish Nuestra Señora de las Nieves or Our Lady of the Snows, and first appears on maps in the 16th century.

The majority of the approximately 12,000 citizens of Nevis are of primarily African descent. English is the official language, and the literacy rate, 98 percent, is one of the highest in the Western Hemisphere. Nevis is of particular historical significance to Americans because it was the birthplace and early childhood home of Alexander Hamilton. Of import to the British, Nevis is the place where Horatio Nelson as a young sea captain, was stationed, and where he met and married Frances Nisbet, a young plantation widow.

Cottle Arch

My first stop on this evening’s walk was the Cottle Church, an Anglican Church now in ruins on the northwest side of Nevis. It was built by Thomas Cottle, a Nevisian lawyer. Ground was broken in 1822 and the church was finally finished in 1824, after a severe economic depression. The Cottle Church was opened to the public on May 5, 1824. With the opening of the church, it became the first church on the whole island of Nevis to allow all people to come and worship; this included slaves. The first Reverend of the Cottle Church was Rev. Daniel Davis. After Thomas Cottle’s death in 1828, the church fell into disuse. It was then rebuilt by Governor Sir Graham Briggs in the late 19th century. But because of the population decline on the island, the Cottle Church again fell into ruins at the turn of the 20th century. Today it has been preserved and can be seen by the public.

Green Monkeys!

As I left the church grounds, I spotted a family of Green Vervet monkeys, which are medium-sized primates from the family of Old World monkeys. There are six species currently recognized, although some classify them all as a single species with six subspecies. Either way, they make up the entirety of the genus Chlorocebus.

These monkeys are native to sub-Saharan Africa; their range extends from Senegal and Ethiopia down to South Africa. A small population, which travelled with enslaved Africans as pets, are found in the Caribbean, on the islands of Barbados, Saint Kitts and Nevis, and a colony also exists in Broward County, Florida.

Why did they cross the road?

Green monkeys live in large groups, which can consist of some males, many females and their offspring, and can be as large as 80 animals. The group hierarchy plays an important role: dominant males and females are given priority in the search for food, and are groomed by subordinate members of the group. While young males must leave their group once they are fully mature, females remain and take on the role of their mothers. These monkeys are territorial animals, and a group can occupy an area of approximately 0.1 to 1 km². They use a wide variety of vocalizations. They can with warn off members of other groups from their territory, and they can also warn members of their own troop of dangers from predators, using different calls for different predators. Monkeys scream when they are disciplined by members of the troop. Facial expressions and body posturing serve as additional communication tools. Their social interactions are highly complex. Where alliances can be formed for benefit, deception is sometimes used. Physical affection is important between family members.

Vervet monkeys are omnivores. The majority of their diet, however, is grasses and fruits. Occasionally they also eat small vertebrates and insects. On the island of Saint Kitts, vervet monkeys will commonly steal brightly coloured alcoholic drinks left behind by tourists on the beach. Many tourists have also found out these monkeys will deliver a powerful bite if they are cornered or threatened. Care should be taken when approaching any vervet monkeys, although these monkeys will retreat from a confrontational situation if given an escape route. If at one point they were domesticated in centuries gone past, they are no longer. In Africa, the documented attacks by these monkeys are extremely rare as compared with dog attacks, in spite of living very closely with humans and often being threatened by humans and their dogs.

Falco Sparverius

My next creature encounter was a falcon which is common in North America, though I was surprised to see one here on Nevis. The American Kestrel (Falco sparverius) was (and sometimes still is) colloquially known in North America as the “Sparrow Hawk”. This name is misleading because it implies a connection with the Eurasian Sparrowhawk Accipiter nisus, which is unrelated – the latter is a accipiter hawk rather than a falcon; moreover, falcons and accipiters are only very distantly related among the diurnal raptors.

American Kestrels are widely distributed across the Americas. Their breeding range extends from central and western Alaska across northern Canada to Nova Scotia, and south throughout North America, into central Mexico, the Baja, and the Caribbean. They are local breeders in Central America and are widely distributed throughout South America.

Most of the birds breeding in Canada and the northern United States migrate south in the winter, although some males stay as year-round residents. It is a very rare vagrant to western Europe.

Mount Nevis Hotel & Resort Poolside

After exploring the wilds around Mount Nevis, I scoured the resort grounds for hummingbirds before returning to my suite. Hummingbirds go to bed early, so I was out of luck, but I promise to try for a shot on my next visit to the island. I did spot several along my walk, but they were in transit and moving too fast to shoot.

The Mount Nevis Hotel and Resort is where we stay on Nevis, and I recommend it not only for it’s pristine surroundings, but also for it’s excellent restaurant and wonderful staff. I’m not compensated in any way for my recommendations, by the way. Any views and representations are my own, and you can take them to the bank as a genuine insider’s view of the Caribbean from an airline crewmember who has been there and done that. My recommendations are few, as I am very picky, so when you spot one be sure to book mark the page for future vacation planning. This resort goes well above and beyond in my opinion, and it delivers a true ‘get away from it all’ experience.

Twiliht on my patio

A view across the channel towards St. Kitts twinkles at twilight. There’s nothing like a nice refreshing tropical rum drink after a walk in paradise. My favorite? Passion fruit juice with pineapple rum on the rocks. For more info about Nevis, feel free to drop me a line. Most pictures on this site are available for purchase – thank you to the folks who have supported me with encouragement, praise, and criticism. It is much appreciated!

Another Sunday in Washington

•March 2, 2008 • 3 Comments

Stock the fruit bin

This weekend finds me at home in Washington rather unexpectedly, and I decided to return to Eastern Market and snap some photos around the capitol area. My first stop in the market was the soap vendor mentioned in a previous post; I wanted her to have glossy prints of the photos I shot that day, and I needed more soap on orders from my girlfriend in Puerto Rico. The next stop was the fresh fruit and meat market, but it was super crowded and people were aggressively pushy so I hit the streets moving west.

I feel it necessary to apologize for the length of this post. I took 399 shots today, which I pared down to 35, 32 of which I decided to place here. The reason for this is that almost half of my readers are from the Caribbean and I have received a couple of emails asking about Washington DC. So for my Caribbean friends, here is a long post with lots of photos from the heart of Washington DC. Those of you expecting more posts about the Caribbean, I promise that there will be plenty of those forthcoming.

Dreamcatchers

Out in the street, I decided to try some depth of field shots with a long lens – my 18-200mm – at the long end of the zoom. Here is one of the photos from that series, featuring dream catchers hanging in the sunlight.

Wagon wheels keep on turnin

Along the street, I was kind of surprised to see this wagon loaded up with copper wares. The textiles and garments for sale were colorful and well cut.

Keeping the copper clean

I was sorely tempted to make an addition to my kitchen stock. but I wasn’t convinced that these were meant to be functional pots and pans. They sure looked nice though.

Library of Congress

Moving west towards the US Capitol building, I passed the Library of Congress. The Library of Congress is the de facto national library of the United States and the research arm of the United States Congress. Located in Washington, D.C., it is the largest by shelf space and one of the most important libraries in the world. Its collections include more than 30 million catalogued books and other print materials in 470 languages; more than 58 million manuscripts; the largest rare book collection in North America, including a Gutenberg Bible (one of only four perfect vellum copies known to exist); over 1 million US Government publications; 1 million issues of world newspapers spanning the past three centuries; 33,000 bound newspaper volumes; 500,000 microfilm reels; over 6,000 comic books titles; the world’s largest collection of legal materials; films; 4.8 million maps; sheet music; 2.7 million sound recordings; the Betts Stradivarius; and the Cassavetti Stradivarius. The head of the Library is the Librarian of Congress. There are actually 2 buildings which house the collection, and this is one of the finest research libraries in the world. I have spent many hours inside and I strongly recommend giving it a look.

The US Capitol

I took loads of photos of the Capitol Building, and happily they were all clear, bright, and well balanced.

The United States Capitol is the capitol building that serves as the seat of government for the United States Congress, the legislative branch of the U.S. federal government. It is located in Washington, D.C., on top of Capitol Hill at the east end of the National Mall. Although not in the geographic center of the District of Columbia, the Capitol is the focus by which the quadrants of the district are divided. Curiously, the west face, which is often taken to be the “front” of the building, is actually its “back”; the true front is the east face.

The building was originally designed by William Thornton. This plan was subsequently modified by Stephen Hallet, Benjamin Latrobe and then Charles Bulfinch. The current dome and the House and Senate wings were designed by Thomas U. Walter and August Schoenborn, a German immigrant, and were completed under the supervision of Edward Clark.

The building is marked by its central dome above a rotunda and two wings, one for each chamber of Congress: the north wing is the Senate chamber and the south wing is the House of Representatives chamber. Above these chambers are galleries where visitors can watch the Senate and House of Representatives. It is an example of the Neoclassical architecture style. The statue on top of the dome is the Statue of Freedom.

Grant oversees the National Mall

Looking down the lawn from the US Capitol, this is the view of Grant’s statue and the national mall. There are so many awesome statues and sculptures in DC that I truly doubt that anyone could see them all. I’d like to come back in the pre-dawn and shoot a few of my favorites, though.

The Ulysses S. Grant Memorial honors American Civil War General and President of the United States Ulysses S. Grant. It is located at the base of Capitol Hill (Union Square, the Mall, 1st Street, between Pennsylvania Avenue and Maryland Avenue), and like the United States Capitol at the top of the hill to the east, the monument’s statue faces west toward the Lincoln Memorial honoring Grant’s wartime president, Abraham Lincoln. Equidistant between the Grant and Lincoln memorials, which define the east and west boundaries of the National Mall, is the Washington Monument. The Grant Memorial includes the largest equestrian statue in the United States and the second largest in the world, after the monument to Italy’s King Victor Emanuel in Rome. James M. Goode in his authoritative The Grant Memorial in Washington D.C. says it “…constitutes one of the most important sculptures in Washington.” The Society of the Army of the Tennessee began the effort in the 1890′s which culminated in the memorial’s dedication decades later.

Lovely Bronze

This is one of my favorite sculptures at the Smithsonian’s sculpture garden. I just like it.

The Hirshhorn Museum and Sculpture Garden is on the National Mall and it was designed by architect Gordon Bunshaft. The Sculpture Garden is part of the Smithsonian Institution. Its collection focuses on contemporary and modern art. Outside the museum is a sculpture garden, featuring works by artists including Auguste Rodin and Alexander Calder.

The building itself is as much of an attraction as anything inside, likened by many to a large spacecraft parked on the National Mall. The building is essentially an open cylinder elevated by four massive “legs”, with a large fountain occupying the central courtyard. The Smithsonian staff reportedly told Gordon Bunshaft, prior to designing the building, that if it did not provide a striking contrast to everything else in the city, then it would be unfit for housing a modern art collection.

Sitting

This is another favorite of mine from the sculpture garden.

The Carousel

Just outside of the Smithsonian Castle is this carousel, which was installed in 1967. Myself, I find the horses to be kind of creepy looking and scary, but that’s just me. The kids really seemed to be enjoying themselves in the mild weather.

Joy and horsies

Happiness is sunshine and a horsie that goes around and around…

Serious blueness

I think this dragon is a more recent addition. I wonder who paints the horsies? Are there professional carousel painters on this earth?

Horsies

Is it me, or are the horsies angry looking? They just seem so upset…

Self Portrait

While I was on the National Mall, I took this self-portrait. Yes, I know, it’s a shadow… but trust me, it’s better this way. The pole I’m leaning on is my mono-pod (for the camera.)

Castle 1

The Castle was the first Smithsonian building, begun in 1847 by architect James Renwick, Jr., whose other works include St. Patrick’s Cathedral in New York City and the Smithsonian’s Renwick Gallery, also in Washington D.C. In August 1853, the Smithsonian’s Board of Regents declared that the work of the original architect, James Renwick, Jr., was done. Lieutenant Barton S. Alexander of the U.S. Army Topographic Engineers was asked to take up the architect’s responsibilities for the slowly progressing Smithsonian Building. Under his supervision, the building was finished in 1855.

Over the years, several reconstructions have taken place. The first followed a disastrous fire on January 24, 1865, which destroyed most of the upper story of the main segment and the north and south towers. In 1884, the east wing was fireproofed and enlarged to accommodate more offices. Remodeling from 1968 to 1969 restored the building to the Victorian atmosphere reminiscent of the era during which it was first inhabited.

This building served as a home for the first Secretary of the Smithsonian, Joseph Henry, and his family and for many years housed all aspects of Smithsonian operations, including an exhibit hall from 1858 until the 1960s. In 1901, Washington’s first children’s room was installed in the Castle’s South Tower Room where the original decorated ceiling and wall stencils were restored in 1987. Located inside near the north entrance is the crypt of James Smithson, benefactor of the Institution, while outside on the Mall, a bronze statue of Joseph Henry, executed by William Wetmore Story, honors the scientist who was the Institution’s first Secretary. In 1996, as the Smithsonian celebrated its 150th anniversary, a bell was added. Although Renwick had intended for a bell in his original plan, there was not enough money to add it to the Castle. It now chimes hourly.

Castle 2

Here’s another view of the castle from a park bench on the other side of the mall. Today, the Smithsonian Castle acts as the ‘brain’ of the Smithsonian, in that it houses all the administrative offices and carries out all Smithsonian operations. In addition, the main Smithsonian visitor center is also located here, with interactive displays and maps. The computers electronically answer most common questions.

Base Camp

Next up, heading westward, was the Washington Monument. The Washington Monument is a large, tall white-colored obelisk at the west end of the National Mall in Washington, D.C. It is a United States Presidential Memorial constructed to commemorate George Washington.

The monument is among the world’s tallest masonry structures and is the world’s tallest obelisk, standing 555 feet 5.125 inches (169.29 m) in height and made of marble, granite, and sandstone. It was designed by Robert Mills, a prominent American architect of the 1840s. The actual construction of the monument began in 1848 but was not completed until 1884, almost 30 years after the architect’s death. This hiatus in construction was because of a lack of funds and the intervention of the American Civil War. A difference in shading of the marble, visible approximately 150 feet (45 m) up, clearly delineates the initial construction from its resumption in 1876.

Its cornerstone was laid on July 4, 1848; the capstone was set on December 6, 1884, and the completed monument was dedicated on February 21, 1885. It officially opened October 9, 1888. Upon completion, it became the world’s tallest structure, a title it inherited from the Cologne Cathedral and held until 1889, when the Eiffel Tower was finished in Paris, France.

The Washington Monument reflection can be seen in the aptly named Reflecting Pool, a rectangular pool extending to the west towards the Lincoln Memorial.

For this next shot, I was on my belly in the grass. This earned me a couple of comments from passers-by who just don’t understand the artistic drive for that perfect shot. I’m not trying to show the world as it is… I’m attempting to show the world as I see it.

Tall 1

I smelled like grass and mud for the rest of the day. This made me happy.

La Summa

Ever wonder what the very top of the monument is like? Now you know…

And now for something you probably don’t know: the capstone, which sits at the very top, is actually made of aluminum. Solid aluminum. It was cast in 1884 by Tiffany and Co. and was, at the time, the largest aluminum casting in the world. In those days, aluminum was a somewhat exotic metal, fetching the same price as silver on commodity markets. The four sides of the capstone are inscribed, but I won’t spoil the surprise as to what they say.

Jefferson 2

I wandered a little south from the Mall in order to capture a few inages of the Thomas Jefferson Memorial, one of the prettiest of the Presidential Memorials. The Thomas Jefferson Memorial is a presidential memorial in Washington, D.C. that is dedicated to Thomas Jefferson, an American Founding Father and the third president of the United States. The neoclassical building was designed by John Russell Pope. It was built by Philadelphia contractor John McShain and was completed in 1943. When completed, the memorial occupied one of the last significant sites left in the city.

Composed of circular marble steps, a portico, a circular colonnade of Ionic order columns, and a shallow dome, the building is open to the elements. Pope made references to the Roman Pantheon and Jefferson’s own design for the Rotunda at the University of Virginia. It is situated in West Potomac Park, on the shore of the Tidal Basin located directly north, form one of the main anchor points in the area of the of the Potomac River. The Washington Monument just east of the axis on the national Mall was intended to be located at the intersection of the White House and the site for the Jefferson Memorial to the south but soft swampy ground which defied nineteenth century engineering required it be sited to the east.

Jefferson 1

Here’s another photo in the series (I took about 60 here) with a bit more detail.

The cornerstone was laid on November 15, 1939 — two years after Pope’s death. Daniel P. Higgins and Otto R. Eggers took over construction of the memorial. The memorial was constructed with Danby Imperial marble (Vermont) for the exterior walls and columns, Tennessee pink marble for the interior floor, Georgian white marble for the interior wall panels, and Missouri gray marble for the pedestal. Indiana limestone was used in construction of the ceiling. The cost of construction was slightly more than $3 million.

The Jefferson Memorial was officially dedicated on April 13, 1943 — the 200th anniversary of Jefferson’s birthday. One of the last American public monuments in the Beaux-Arts tradition, it was severely criticized even as it was being built, by those who adhered to the modernist argument that dressing 20th century buildings like Greek and Roman temples constituted a “tired architectural lie.” More than 60 years ago, Pope responded with silence to critics who dismissed him as part of an enervated architectural elite practicing “styles that are safely dead”. As a National Memorial it was administratively listed on the National Register of Historic Places on October 15, 1966.

Jefferson 3

The interior of the memorial has a 19 foot (5.8 m) tall, 10,000 pound (5 ton) bronze statue of Jefferson by sculptor Rudulph Evans which was added four years after the dedication, and the interior walls are engraved with passages from Jefferson’s writings. Most prominent are the words which are inscribed in a frieze below the dome: “I have sworn upon the altar of God eternal hostility against every form of tyranny over the mind of man.” This sentence is taken from a September 23, 1800, letter by Jefferson to Dr. Benjamin Rush.

Duck!

While I was shooting the Jefferson Memorial photos, this mallard was peacefully dozing at my feet in the Potomac Basin.

Lincoln 1

I returned back to the National Mall in order to end my photo shoot with some twilight views of the Lincoln Memorial and Washington Monument. They are gorgeous at night and even though I didn’t bring the tripod, I wanted to try a few shots.

The Lincoln Memorial is a United States Presidential memorial built to honor 16th President Abraham Lincoln. The architect was Henry Bacon, the sculptor was Daniel Chester French, and the painter of the interior murals was Jules Guerin.

The building is in the form of a Greek Doric temple and contains a large seated sculpture of Abraham Lincoln and inscriptions of two well-known speeches by Lincoln. The memorial has been the site of many famous speeches, including Martin Luther King‘s “I Have a Dream” speech, delivered on August 28, 1963, during the rally at the end of the March on Washington for Jobs and Freedom.

Like the other monuments on the National Mall, including the nearby Vietnam Veterans Memorial, Korean War Veterans Memorial, and National World War II Memorial, the Lincoln Memorial is administered by the National Park Service under its National Mall and Memorial Parks group. The National Memorial has been listed on the National Register of Historic Places since October 15, 1966. It is open to the public 24 hours a day.

Lincoln 2

The Lincoln Monument Association was incorporated by the United States Congress in March 1867 to build a memorial to Lincoln. A site was not chosen until 1901, in an area that was then swampland. Congress formally authorized the memorial on February 9, 1911, and the first stone was put into place on Lincoln’s birthday, February 12, 1914. The monument was dedicated by Chief Justice William Howard Taft on May 30, 1922, a ceremony attended by Lincoln’s only surviving child, Robert Todd Lincoln. The stone for the building is Indiana limestone and Yule marble, quarried at the town of Marble, Colorado. The Lincoln sculpture within is made of Georgian marble, quarried at the town of Tate, Georgia. In 1923, designer Henry Bacon received the Gold Medal of the American Institute of Architects, his profession’s highest honor, for the design of the memorial. Originally under the care of the Office of Public Buildings and Public Parks, it was transferred to the National Park Service on August 10, 1933.

Standing apart from the somewhat triumphal and Roman manner of most of Washington, the memorial takes the severe form of a Greek Doric temple. It is ‘peripteral,’ with 36 massive columns, each 37 feet (10 m) high, surrounding the cella of the building itself, which rises above the porticos. As an afterthought, the 36 columns required for the design were seen to represent the 36 U.S. states at the time of Lincoln’s death, and their names were inscribed in the entablature above each column. The names of the 48 states of the Union when the memorial was completed are carved on the exterior attic walls, and a later plaque commemorates the admission of Alaska and Hawaii in 1959.

WM 1

From my vantage point at the foot of the reflecting pool, I had a great view of both monuments. Here is a late twilight shot of the obelisk.

Lincoln 3

As the sunlight continued to dissipate, the hues deepened and the lighted figure of Abraham Lincoln started to pop. The main influence on the style of the Lincoln Memorial was the Temple of Zeus at Olympia, Greece. The focus of the memorial is Daniel Chester French’s sculpture of Lincoln, seated on a throne. French studied many of Mathew Brady’s photographs of Lincoln and depicted the President as worn and pensive, gazing eastwards down the Reflecting Pool toward the capital’s starkest emblem of the Union, the Washington Monument. Beneath his hands, the Roman fasces, symbols of the authority of the Republic, are sculpted in relief on the seat. The statue stands 19 feet 9 inches (6 m) tall and 19 feet (6 m) wide, and was carved from 28 blocks of white Georgia marble.

The central cella is flanked by two others. In one, Lincoln’s Gettysburg Address is inscribed on the south wall, and in the other, Lincoln’s second inaugural address is inscribed on the north wall.On the latter, the word Future was carved with an E instead of F and had to be filled in and can still be seen today. Above the texts are a series of murals by Jules Guerin that depict an angel (representing truth), the freeing of a slave (on the south wall, above the Gettysburg Address) and the unity of the American North and South (above the Second Inaugural Address). On the wall behind the statue, and over Abraham’s head is this dedication:

IN THIS TEMPLE

AS IN THE HEARTS OF THE PEOPLE

FOR WHOM HE SAVED THE UNION

THE MEMORY OF ABRAHAM LINCOLN

IS ENSHRINED FOREVER

WM 2

Turning back around, night filled the eastern sky and provided a beautiful backdrop for Washington Monument.

Lincoln 4

There are a number of urban legends associated with the memorial. Some have claimed that Robert E. Lee’s face is carved onto the back of Lincoln’s statue. Another popular legend is that Lincoln is shown using sign language to represent his initials, with his left hand shaped to form an “A” and his right hand to form an “L”. The National Park Service denies both stories. However, historian Gerald Prokopowicz writes that, while it is not clear that sculptor Daniel Chester French intended Lincoln’s hands to be formed into sign language versions of his initials, it is possible that French did intend it, since he was familiar with American Sign Language, and he would have had a reason to do so, i.e., to pay tribute to Lincoln for having signed the federal legislation giving Gallaudet University, a university for the deaf, the authority to grant college degrees.

This was my last shot of the monuments today, and I do hope that my friends who have not yet had a chance to visit Washington will enjoy the photographs in the interim. When you DO visit Washington, it is best to get around using the city’s rail system, called ‘The Metro’.

Metro 1

This is the Smithsonian station, which, like all Metro stations, is very clean and well-policed. This rail system is truly one of the hidden gems of Washington DC and it makes getting around easy, convenient, and affordable. It is often faster getting across the city via metro than by using the city cabs.

Metro 3

The train cars are all clean and relatively ad-free compared to some other cities I’ve visited. Graffiti? What graffiti?

Metro 2

At top speed, Metro trains reach 65 miles per hour, faster than the posted speed limits for highways in and out of DC.

Once again, I apologize for the length of this post, and I do hope that the download time was worth it in the end. Please feel free to leave comments, ideas, and hate mail. Everyone likes getting mail, right?

What About the Girl?

•February 29, 2008 • 2 Comments

It has been pointed out that I haven’t posted very many shots of my girlfriend, and some folks (*ahem* Josie *ahem*) think that I don’t want to show her pictures for some reason.

This is a false assumption.

As anyone who has been married for a while can tell you, there are (from time to time) fundamental differences in the way any two people see the world. And these differences can lead to spirited debates. Spirited, I say. A polite euphemism, to be sure.

Since everyone thinks that they are ugly in photographs (myself included), selecting which shots to print is a tricky business sometimes. So without further adieu, here are (respectively) Mary’s and my choices for best photo from a very quick shoot in bad lighting and not enough time for me to correct it (we did these in 5 minutes before heading off to someplace else.) So for those of you looking for photographic excellence, these shots ain’t it.

Mary’s Choice

I think Mary likes this one because it is polite, pleasant, and quaint. But I’m not entirely sure, and in a future post I’ll let her explain her whims and fancies in more detail. As previously explained, the light was way off and I am still learning the camera, so she is underexposed.

My Choice

Now THIS is my choice.

And not just because it was taken several shots later as I was starting to zero in on the right camera and flash settings. No, I like this one because its really the way Mary is a lot of the time when we’re together. I mean, given a choice, which woman would you want to spend more time with? I’ll take the second photo without fail.

And so, Josie, and dear readers, hopefully this will quell the grumbling about girlfriend shots for a while. In the meantime, I’ll study up on indoor lighting under pressure and see if I can’t make some decent images of Mary that everyone will be happy with.

 
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